• Playing PS3/PS4 with a mouse and keyboard (Part 1)

    Introduction

    After a long time, I finally get a time to write a tutorial and share a DIY device for playing PS4/PS3 with mouse and keyboard. This version of project was named BeastBox, and for those guys that saw the previous version called Carbon, this version is much more easier to build. All those versions can be found on my youtube channel, for this build, watch this. The total cost of project is about US$ 25. There’s an important thing to say about the project: It don’t make you a better player, what makes you a better player is training. Using a mouse seems unfair but if you use one of the many devices that promise a 1:1 translation, you will see that aiming with these devices is not the same as aiming on PC. On PC you have an end to end digital signal, In a console we must convert this high precision signal in analog. If you play every day with a joystick, you will be better than guys that plays once a week. If you doubt that build one and play, after that tell me the results.

     

    Architecture

     

    Architecture Overview

    Figure 1 – Architecture Overview

     

    In Figure 1, show us an overview of how project works. The microcontroller chosen was a STMicroeletronics  because this manufacturer have microcontrollers with two USBs this is  a cortex M4 with 1Mb of flash that is good for storing our profiles. Its operation is pretty simple, all inputs are collected using a usb hub. based on selected game profile,  the keys pressed are mapped to PS3/PS4 buttons in the other hand the mouse information is translated from digital to analog. These informations are passed to PS4 via second usb. In case of PS4 consoles, you must keep a Dualshock4 connected because there’s a periodical exchange of challenges between  PS4 and Dualshock4 that I let it pass. So lets go straight to the montage.

     

    Hardware

    All the simplicity of project can be viewed in schematics below. As you can see the majority of components are optional so if you don’t have familiarity with electronics build only the basic. The basic consist in two resistors and a USB type A connector, In schematics you can see also that exist two possible configurations for the RGB led depending on it’s type (cathode common or anode common). The UART (serial) connector is completely optional and only if you are interested to know what I’m printing in log output can put it aside, otherwise you will need a serial port with 3mb baudrate . In order to use only one USB cabe (ps4-device) you must use the D1 otherwise you will need another USB cable connecting CN5(located in JTAG section of board) to a power source.

     

    Figura 2 - Schematic (Esquema Elétrico)

    Figure 2 – Schematic (Esquema Elétrico)

     

    In figure 3, you can see the montage complete. In this picture you can see the connector CN5 in JTAG section. The blue button is used to cycle the profiles without save it. If you build the RGB led you could configure different color for each profile. The STM32F4DISCOVER?Y board have 4 leds (BLUE/GREEN/YELLOW/RED) and I’m using them to display some status:  When red led are on this mean that we’re answering a PS4/DS4 chalenge. When you press any key on connected input devices the yellow led will light up. The green led is the USB HOST SOF(start of frame) signal and finally the blue is a periodic blinker signal.

     

    Assembled Project

    Figure 3 – Assembled Project

     

    In figure 4, the bottom view showing all connections. In this case I use SMD (surface mounted) resistors but in bill of material I listed  TH(through hole) to make soldering easier. Other thing that is not showed is the RGB resistors because in this case those resistors are soldered in a separated board. Note that this layout left a minimum distance between PB14/15 and the USB connector.

     

    Figura 4 - Soldering side (Lado de baixo - solda)

    Figure 4 – Soldering side (Lado de baixo – solda)

     

    In the sequence of images below, details about wire with resistors on its positions depending on your build selection. Remember diodes have polarity so take care with it.

     

     

    One final image showing the board detached from STM32F4DISCOVERY. If you don’t understood something, please let me know so I can improve this tutorial.

     

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    Figure 5 – Another angles

     

    Bill of Materials

    There’s nothing special on this list, everything simple, but don’t forget soldering iron, solder and some wires or wire wrapping wire.

     

    • 1 – Conectores USB 4P ‘A’ RECEPTACLE ( Mouser Part #: 571-292303-1 )
    • 2 – Headers & Wire Housings 25+25 DIL VERTICAL SOCKET TIN ( Mouser Part #: 855-M20-7832546 )
    • 2 – Metal Film Resistors – Through Hole 22ohms 1% 50PPM ( Mouser Part #: 271-22-RC )
    • 1 – Schottky Diodes & Rectifiers 3.0 Amp 20 Volt ( Manufacturer Part #: 1N5820 )
    • 1 – Through Hole RGB 630/525/465nm 750/420/750mcd 60Deg ( Mouser Part #: 604-WP154A4SUREQBFZG )
    • 3 – Metal Film Resistors – Through Hole 220ohms 1% 50PPM ( Mouser Part #: 271-220-RC )
    • 1 – ARM STM32F407 HIGH PERF DISCOVERY BOARD ( Mouser Part #: 511-STM32F4DISCOVERY  )
    • 1 – CIRCBD,PAD-PER-HOLE 4.0″X 4.0″ X .062″ ( Mouser Part #: 574-8015-1 )

     

    Note: In schematics the  diode D1 is a BAT60JFILM (SMD) for through hole use the 1N5820 diode.

     

    On next post I will show you how install the firmware and configure your device to unleash your BEAST. Please share your doubts and suggestions in the forum.

     

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